Visualization of the
Breed Standard
The Beagle is a small scent hound, bred to track rabbit and hare as the hunter follows on foot. The Standard describes the required physical attributes and the point scale emphasizes the relative importance of these qualities needed to accomplish their task.
A good head allows for maximum function of the olfactory (sense of smell) system. Correct running gear is critical for endurance and speed, a good chest and strong back also ensure endurance. A Beagle’s neck must be supple and long enough for its nose to reach the ground comfortably. Well-boned legs provide sturdy support. Balance is important for efficient running and good feet necessary for rough terrain. Thin coats offer little protection against brambles and sharp brush, and a too gay tail cannot be seen over high groundcover.
General Appearance
A miniature Foxhound, solid and big for his inches, with the wear-and-tear look of the hound that can last in the chase and follow his quarry to the death.
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The proper English Foxhound is a beautifully proportioned hound, elegant in style, balanced fore and aft and nicely boned. “Big for its inches” means plenty of bone (particularly the round bone of the forelegs) for the height of the hound. Too much bone results in coarseness, too little in a spindly look. There should be no suggestion of ‘toyishness”.
Temperament
This “Merry Little Hound” is just that: happy, friendly, and courageous without being foolhardy. As pack hounds, they must be good-natured and coexist and work with other dogs happily. Shy or mean Beagles are problem hounds and should not be tolerated. Bred for scenting game, the Beagle’s nose may move automatically to the ground when shown on a loose lead.
Presentation in the Ring
The Beagle is a working scent hound and should have a natural look. Excess hair may be trimmed from the neck and body, tidying the outline, but still maintaining a natural appearance, not appearing barbered or shaved. The long hairs at the tip of the tail are shaped to give a smoother natural appearance, ending in a properly rounded tip, not flattened or squared off, nor should the hair on the tail be teased and backcombed to resemble a bottle brush. Whiskers may be trimmed to give a clean line to the muzzle, but may also be left untrimmed. Whiskers serve as sensory organs, probably serving to protect the eye as the Beagle hunts in close brush. Dewclaws may be removed to give a clean line to the legs. Nails are kept trimmed to help maintain the compact foot. Clean teeth, clean coat with a natural healthy gloss enhance the appearance of any hound. Provided the coat is a true hound color, color and markings in the breed are of no consequence. Artificial enhancement to color of the coat, nose or eye rims, is prohibited by the American Kennel Club and is not to be tolerated.
Varieties/Disqualification
Varieties:
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There shall be two varieties: Thirteen Inch, which shall be for hounds not exceeding 13 inches in height. Fifteen Inch, which shall be for hounds over 13 but not exceeding 15 inches in height. Disqualification Any hound measuring more than 15 inches shall be disqualified.
Height is the only disqualification in the Beagle Standard and thus proper importance should be placed on it. The division into two sizes should be just that, the 13” should be a smaller replica of the 15”. And both should be smaller proportionate versions of the English Foxhound. The Beagle was always bred in a range of sizes in the United States due to the differences in terrain, groundcover and quarry, and the personal preference of the huntsman. When competing in field trials and pack meets, the smaller hounds were at a disadvantage and as a result, the two varieties were established to allow for a more level playing field when competing. In the ring there is no other preference to size, including variations of height within a variety.
The height of a Beagle can be very deceiving, dependent on shoulder placement. If a hound has poor shoulder angulation, it’s possible that the highest point over the shoulder blades could reach up into the neck. A Beagle with good shoulders can actually be a considerably overall larger hound and still measure within the limits of 13 or 15 inches. Judges are encouraged to measure as part of their routine examination of the Beagle
Head 25%
The head accounts for 25% of the scale of points in the Beagle Standard, and while it is a hallmark of the breed, the Beagle is by no means a “head breed”. The head is important and should be carefully studied to understand correct construction. But, do not judge the Beagle as a "head breed", recognize a correct head, but place importance to the functional portion of the hound, the body.
Correct Beagle Head (Profile)
Correct Dog Head
Head - Skull/Muzzle
Skull 5%: The skull should be fairly long, slightly domed at occiput, with cranium broad and full.
While the planes of the top skull and muzzle should be parallel, the top skull is not flat, it rounds gently to the occiput. The length of skull from occiput to stop should be approximately equal to the length of muzzle from stop to tip of nose. The stop should be moderate with no indication of ‘dishiness’ as in a Pointer or Cocker head.
Although not specifically mentioned in the standard, most breeders agree that the head should be free from wrinkle, as a wrinkled head can create a "worried" and unappealing expression.
Muzzle 5%: Muzzle of medium length-straight and square cut, the stop moderately defined. Jaws: Level. Lips free from flews, nostrils large and open
The muzzle should be full and somewhat rounded with good depth, not flat or chiseled under the eye. A short muzzle is undesirable, giving the Beagle a ‘toyish’ appearance and decreasing the area for olfactory capabilities. Large, open nostrils are critical for scenting capabilities. The nose pigment should fit the color of the hound. In the black tri-colored Beagle, the nose should be black. In lemon/white, red/white or other colors, a lighter pigment is acceptable, in general however, the darker the pigment, the better. There is no specific mention of the bite in the Beagle Standard, but the English Foxhound Standard calls specifically for teeth which meet squarely, neither overshot nor undershot. The level jaw asked for in the Beagle Standard indicates that a scissors bite is preferred in the Beagle, but a level bite is acceptable. An occasional skewed or missing tooth is not to be penalized.
Correct Bitch Head
Head - Ears & Eyes, Defects
Ears 10%: Ears set on moderately low, long, reaching when drawn out nearly, if not quite, to the end of the nose; fine in texture, fairly broad-with almost entire absence of erectile power-setting close to the head, with the forward edge slightly inturning to the cheek, rounded at tip.
The ears should be set on level with the outer corner of the eye. Ear length is important for gathering scent in the field. While nearly lacking erectile power, the base will rise a bit when excited, but not above the level of the topskull.
Eyes 5%: Eyes large, set well apart-soft and houndlike, expression gentle and pleading, of a brown or hazel color.
The shape of the eye should be round to almond, always soft and expressive. Color of the Beagle’s eyes should fit the coloration of the hound, but preferably darker rather than lighter. While pigmented eye rims are necessary to achieve a "soft" expression, an abundance of black pigmentation, “mascara”, is not. A "gentle, pleading expression” is a factor of a correct eye shape and size, combined with a generally darker eye color. A smaller eye is to be penalized, as are yellow or blue eyes as they give an improper expression.
Correct Bitch Head
Head Defects--A very flat skull, narrow across the top; excess of dome, eyes small, sharp and terrierlike, or prominent and protruding; muzzle long, snipy or cut away decidedly below the eyes, or very short. Roman-nosed, or upturned, giving a dish-face expression. Ears short, set on high or with a tendency to rise above the point of origin.
BODY 35%
Balance is critical. The length of body measured from prosternum to point of buttock is longer than distance from withers to ground. There should be prosternum visible in front of the shoulder. Additionally, there should be some "dog behind the tail", which is created by proper angulation of the pelvis as it meets the femur. As a result, the beagle is off square, longer than tall. Although the standard calls for a short back, the back must have sufficient length to allow for proper rib construction and a well muscled loin. Ribs should extend well back. Back length should be long enough to allow for a ground covering side gait; hounds that are too short coupled will not be able to accommodate the angulation necessary for endurance in the field. A shorter backed beagle is not necessarily more correct